Pinot speed dating in Martinborough

The room was dimly lit. There were candles glowing everywhere, red and white heart-shaped helium balloons across the ceiling, and an inviting fire burning in the nearby fireplace.

I stood talking to an energetic, grey-haired woman whose intricately beaded black necklace sparkled in the candlelight. She was telling me about her life as a vineyard owner.

“I do all the P words,” she said. “Plant, pick, prune and price!” Then she let loose with a delightfully mad, very infectious laughter. Her short hair flipped back as she doubled over.

I was speed dating, and having a fantastic time. Of course, this woman was old enough to be my mother. But never mind. She was not my date.

I was there to find my perfect Pinot match.

Martinborough wines

Martinborough is a small wine region, responsible for less than 3% of New Zealand’s total wine production. But there’s something about the combination of climate, soil, and human dedication that makes Martinborough wines punch well above their weight.

Recently Martinborough wines took 20% of the Top Twenty New Zealand picks in the prestigious British wine magazine, Decanter, for “exciting producers and stunning wines.” How’s that for a small community?

I confess that back in my suburban Detroit days I was a bit of a wine moron. In fact, I’d never even tasted Pinot Noir before CJ and I settled in Martinborough. But Pinot Noir is Martinborough’s specialty, and since coming here I’ve realized I just absolutely love the stuff.

So when I had the opportunity to taste a wide range of local Pinot Noirs as part of the first ever ‘Pinot Speed Dating’ event by Wines from Martinborough, I jumped at the chance.

That night CJ dropped me off at the venue, Brackenridge Country Retreat & Spa, so I wouldn’t have to worry about drinking too much. Before he drove away he said, “Have fun!”

I suppose it’s not often that your partner of 16 years tells you to have fun speed dating.

In the lobby

While waiting in the lobby for the event to start, I met some of the other ‘daters’ there – a married couple from the Netherlands, a young couple from Wellington.

We sipped 2007 La Michelle from Margrain Vineyard, a very nice champagne style wine of predominantly Pinot Noir grapes.

All of us were wondering if we were going to find the Pinot love of our life that night, or just a brief viticultural fling.

Then I bumped into Martinborough’s local physician, Charlotte, who’d come along for the event. She and I joined one of the small tasting groups together.

You know you live in a village when you team up with your doctor for a fun night out.

The dating begins

Suddenly a pair of double doors swung open and we were met with 10 winegrowers, each standing at a wine barrel table, ready to serve their wines.

The tasting groups were assigned a ‘first date’ and very quickly four or five people had gathered in front of each winemaker.

In true ‘speed dating’ style, we’d been encouraged to find out as much about the wine and the vineyard as possible in our allotted 10 minutes.

Each wine was matched with a canapé from Bar Saluté in nearby Greytown. There were delicious things like Moroccan spice wild venison croquettes with Pinot jelly, and octopus and squid ink risotto with shaved parmesan.

With so much good food and wine, my taste buds were in heaven all night.

The first date

Our first date was with Cambridge Road’s 2009 Pinot Noir.

I have to tell you that recently our house was burgled. Fortunately CJ and I don’t have much of any value at our place. Our television is as old as the hills, and the burglars had no interest in lugging the heavy relic away. They stole only one thing, a gift from our friend Lisa when she came to our olive harvest – a bottle of Cambridge Road Pinot Noir.

They didn’t touch the other bottles of wine nearby. Clearly, Martinborough burglars are a very discerning bunch.

Cambridge Road winegrower Lance Redgwell looked as organic as his wine, with his scruffy goatee and gentle demeanor. He wore a black suit and converse sneakers, and could have passed for one of the band members from Blondie.

He poured us each a taste of his 2009 Pinot Noir, and I was happy to be able to finally taste the wine that had been stolen from me. It was delicious – young and balanced with hints of berry and plum.

We talked for several minutes to Lance about his approach to winemaking, which is biodynamic and stresses a holistic approach to the vineyard. After a pleasant chat, we heard the bell ring.

Our 10 minutes were up. On we went to our next date.

The second date

That was when I met Winifred of Cabbage Tree Vineyard – she of the P words and the mad, infectious laugh. Winifred was there with her much more mild-mannered husband, David.

As soon as we’d gathered around, Winifred launched into a raucous version of the old tune ‘Hey Big Spender’ with the words rewritten as though the Cabbage Tree 2006 Pinot Noir itself were singing to us. Meanwhile, David poured us each a taste.

I hadn’t heard much about Cabbage Tree Vineyard, and I was taken aback at how good the wine was. It was wonderfully silky with wild berry, aniseed and smoky bacon flavors – a mature, delightful, and surprising wine. A bit like Winifred herself.

As Winifred told us about the wine, she explained that they don’t do any ‘fining’ (adding substances to filter out the solids and proteins). Instead they rely on time, which is the traditional approach of Burgundy.

“That’s why the 2006 is our current release,” Winifred said. “Other wines of the same quality sell for nearly twice ours. David tells me I’m a socialist to price it so low!”

At one point Winifred began looking very intently at Charlotte, who was standing next to me.

“You look familiar,” Winifred said. “Do I know you?”

Before Charlotte had the chance to speak, Winifred’s screamed, “Oh! You’re my doctor!”

She immediately threw her arms around Charlotte and gave her an enormous hug.

Wine after wine

The entire evening went like this, meeting delicious wines and fantastic characters in quick succession.

Some of the wines and people were subdued, some refined, and some were larger than life.

As we moved from one date to the next, it struck me over and over again what an amazing opportunity the night was – to not only taste 10 different Pinot Noirs from one small winemaking region, but to meet the winemakers themselves and learn about their individual approach to wine.

I was amazed at what a vast range of tastes I found in those wines, considering they were all Martinborough Pinot Noir.

After the dates were over, we all had glass of Muirlea Rise’s Apres Royale, which was an amazing dessert Pinot.

When CJ drove up at the end of the night to give me a ride home, I fell into the car seat feeling very happy indeed. As I told him about the evening, we drove down the dark rural roads, past open paddocks where cattle slept, and right towards the heart of the village. I felt a surprising flush of small town, local pride.

And that’s not just the wine talking.

My 10 Pinot Noir dates, A to Z

• Ata Rangi, 2008 Crimson – Serious date material. 40-something. Just mature enough. Humorous, witty, sexy, nice on the eye. Sweet red plum and black cherry.
• Big Sky Wines, 2008 Pinot Noir – A masculine bloke wearing muddy gumboots and a spotless tux. Sophisticated but very down to earth. Ripe cherry and dark plum, a nice touch of thyme and cinnamon.
• Cambridge Road, 2009 Pinot Noir – Young, organic and very natural. Balanced with hints of berry and plum. Burglars love it.
• Cabbage Tree Vineyard, 2006 Pinot Noir – A surprise win and a great date. Wild berry, aniseed and smoky bacon. A mature, delightful wine.
• Escarpment Vineyard, 2008 Pinot Noir – Definitely someone to take home to Mom. Sophisticated and complex. Rich and lush.
• Hudson Vineyard, 2008 Pinot Noir – The girl next door who’s a pleasure to be with. Cherry aroma. Vanilla and cloves.
• Margrain Vineyard, 2008 Home Block Pinot Noir – A multifaceted woman. Sleek and stylish. Tangy cherry bouquet. Juicy, dark fruits.
• Martinborough Vineyard, 2008 Pinot Noir – Dashing and full of finesse. All class. Dark chocolate to the nose, dark fruits to the tongue.
• Murdoch James Estate, 2006 Fraser Pinot Noir – A cultured partner who’s a bit feisty. Spice and leather. ‘Not a Pinot for wimps.’
• Nga Waka, 2009 Pinot Noir – A lovely young lady ready for long-term commitment. Nice and fruity now. Will still be a great date in 8 to 10 years.